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Resin: separated layers and parts split in half

Severity: HighAffects: Resin (MSLA/SLA)Updated July 27, 2026

Symptom

The part appears cleanly cut along a horizontal plane, or shows cracks between layers. Prusa documents this failure specifically for resin printers and links it to the material's shrinkage after curing.

Likely causes

In order: the most frequent cause comes first.

  1. 01Insufficient exposure: layers do not bond with the needed strength
  2. 02Resin shrinkage on curing, which creates internal stresses between layers
  3. 03Excessive peel force from a large cross-section
  4. 04A loose or worn FEP film, which increases suction on lift
  5. 05Cold resin: below 18–20 °C viscosity rises and the print fails

How to fix it

Apply one fix at a time and reprint the same test part. Changing three settings at once tells you nothing about which one worked.

  1. 01

    Increase normal-layer exposure

    Easy

    Manufacturers give ranges: Anycubic publishes 2.5 to 3 seconds for its Standard Resin V2, 2 to 3.6 for ABS-Like 3.0, 2 to 2.5 for Water-Wash 2.0 and 1.5 to 3 for Tough 2.0. Raise in 0.2-second steps until layers stop separating, without overdoing it and losing detail.

  2. 02

    Hollow the part and add drain holes

    Medium

    A solid part has large cross-sections that multiply peel force on every layer. Hollowing it to a 2–3 mm wall reduces that force and resin consumption too. Drain holes are mandatory: without them liquid resin stays trapped inside and later bursts the part.

  3. 03

    Tilt the part and check the FEP film

    Medium

    Tilting 20 to 30 degrees reduces the area that peels at once. Also check the FEP film's tension: it should sound like a drum when tapped gently. An FEP with white marks, scratches or slack needs replacing.

  4. 04

    Warm the room or the resin

    Medium

    Prusa recommends keeping resin between 18 and 32 °C and warns that below that range viscosity changes. On a winter night in Toluca, Chihuahua or Puebla, a resin printer in an unheated room fails for this reason rather than because of its settings.

How to prevent it

  • Always hollow large solid parts and give them drain holes
  • Check FEP tension before every long print
  • Shake the resin bottle for about ten seconds before filling the vat
  • Do not print resin in a room below 18 °C

Sources

  1. [1]De-lamination / separated layers (SL1/SL1S) | Prusa Knowledge BasePrusa Research · Manufacturer · accessed July 27, 2026
  2. [2]Resins | Prusa Knowledge Base (temperatura de la resina 18–32 °C)Prusa Research · Manufacturer · accessed July 27, 2026

Related problems

HighResina

Resin: the part does not stick to the build plate

At the end of the print the plate comes out empty, or with only part of the raft, and the part is found stuck to the bottom of the vat as a sheet of cured resin. Prusa documents it as prints breaking away from the platform.

HighResina

Resin: wrong exposure, lost detail or no part at all

With too little exposure nothing appears on the plate or the part comes out soft and deformed; Prusa documents the case of 'print doesn't appear, resin does not solidify'. With too much, details thicken, holes close up, supports fuse solid and parts that should fit will not.